I am a Mary Katrantzou nut and in fact a bit of a digital print fanatic so bring on the detail!
Last season was all about flowers for Mary K but for winter she has composed her trademark incredible prints with everyday objects (watches, bows, hangers, mazes, typewriters, phones…) grouped in strong colours with the usual clever use of symmetry. We particularly like the witty pencil skirt with pencils on it – genius – and better still the work was executed by Chanel’s couture embroiderers Lesage…quite a coup for the young designer, non?
What can we say? The prints are inspired and the cutting exquisitely creative. Just enjoy x
And so to another with a penchant for print. Holly Fulton is best known for her Art Deco inspired pieces but she has opted for hot pink and bright turquoise in the winter (of course) with inspiration from Lady Chatterley’s Lover and Miami Art Deco buildings apparently. Then of course there were black lines everywhere – Fulton’s trademark – and plenty of sleek lines.
But unlike previous collections there was extra embellishment and even a little William Morris-like detailing, giving what fashion editors think is a new kind of sophistication and I agree- especially the less lurid, more monochrome pieces, which I love.
Pics from Elle, Topshop’s blog, LFW and my camera!
With a penchant for new materials, Perspex and metallics over the past few seasons it was no surprise that some of our favourite designers look to the future with their collections.
We hear that a number of fashion editors left ahead of the David Koma show (ouch) and there were mixed reviews about the usually edgy designer’s use of rainbow taffeta. I got a look at the collection up-close and the use of giant eyelets were interesting with the (dubious) taffeta, threaded through in some cases like giant shoe laces. There was also plenty of silver hardware (harking back to earlier arguably more ‘Koma’ collections and shards of Perspex, adding the future mixed with the 1960s look.
Christopher Kane’s use of quirky fabric and boxy cut fits neatly into the futuristic box, as does Peter Pilotto’s streamlined silhouettes and spacey puffer jackets. And might we describe Fred Buttler as origami of the future?!
Ok let’s address the obvious: fur. EEW. We hear that some of it is real and that’s just mean. While we wouldn’t buy any real fur at all we can’t deny that candy-coloured furriness (real or fake) was a trend on this year’s catwalk and we’re pretty sure it will run through to the high street – with fake look-a-like items available.
Matthew Williamson put fur collars on a number of his 1950s-style frocks and featured an eye-catching pale blue furry jacket. Peter Pilotto included rainbow-coloured fur (or furry) stoles and collars in their multi-coloured collection too. What’s your take on this controversial trend?
The military trend was massive last, last winter and it looks like it’s coming back again…attention!
Unique’s show was surprisingly grown up – it must be the influence of Kate Phelan, ex-fashion director at Vogue who is now installed in Topshop Towers.
No gimmicks, glitter (sigh!) or animal print, every piece – even the velvet jumpsuit described as a boyfriend scarer by some- was super wearable. I’m especially chuffed as Topshop seems to be growing older with me!
Herringbone, sophisticated layers, shearing and hooded coats were de rigor as well as leather trousers. Kilts are back! Military coats were more heavy-duty and longer than before in luxe, warm material. Check out the A-listers too.
Paul Smith’s jackets were lighter weight, shorter and more equestrian – or the type that higher-ranking officers might choose! The geek-chic glasses toned down the military-inspired tailoring.
Finally, Acne’s achingly cool collection featured vinyl, exaggerated silhouettes and heavy-duty belts. More here.
Carrying on SS12’s prominent trend of sugary pastel cuteness, pointy kitten heels, pretty lace and candy colours all featured heavily, as well as bright pink knits with crochet collars, bold buttons teamed with sixties style cigarette trous.
And the best bit? The amazing prints featuring lips, make-up and bows. Just soooo cute. Our biggest criticism: fur, which apparently is real. Eew. Just say no.
Henry Holland also stuck with bright pastels but the shot of primary red (dubbed Crayola red by some) which featured surprisingly heavily in the House of Holland collection, stopped it being too saccharine.
I loved the bright zig-zags in the silk dresses but the 1970s flared leggings with blazers left me cold. The punchy Hounds tooth was very Holland but it was all a little too disco for me. I prefer Holland in his statement tshirt era.
Pics: From Vogue and Twitter.
With all the avant-garde crazy concepts around it’s easy to forget that Britain has some of the most reputable heritage brands and dependable designers turning out prim and proper looks.
Daks showcased 1920s style devore dresses, slinky silks and Great Gatsby-esque chiffon dresses along with tailored trousers, obligatory check fabric and cute clutch bags.
Aquascutum’s show was all about the coat. Swishy winter coats with furry elbows sat nicely alongside its traditional trench, as well a more adventurous plum biker jacket. The other emphasis was on wholesome combinations of fabric, with wools, tweed, leather and shearing all looking luxurious and polished.
Jasper Conran played it safe. The sequin dresses were perfectly wearable but not exactly exciting; however elegant camel cashmere and simple shifts will keep his fans happy.
As ever, London Fashion Week is an eclectic mix of designers with very different ideas, but on day one we were treated to more vibrant colours and complex prints.
Antoni & Alison’s collection was typically playful and we particularly liked the blown-up digital print details of paper bags, individual sequins, brocade and bows. Despite the fun collage theme the collection was chic and the wispy shift and ladylike shapes exuded a relaxed kind-of sophistication.
Frodor Golan kept the tribal print alive with a striking, flowing gown, while Bora Aksu channelled polished peasantry with a folk-inspired dip dye dress in tangerine and crisp floral prints.
Basso and Brooke’s collection was focused on print-clashing with spots, stripes, zig-zags and colours all mashed together. There was a patchwork quality to it and we noted innovative use of scaling of the prints – much like Antoni & Alison’s collection, but to a very different effect.
It was only last month that Matthew Williamson showed off his new collection at London Fashion Week and this is the first time we’ve seen it in the wild.
Sienna Miller wore a stunning feathery dress for the All Saints Breakthrough Breast Cancer Party … guess it helps when one of your best friends designed it in getting your hands on a catwalk look first- but we love the dress anyway – even if it isn’t Spring yet!
Pics: The Telegraph.
Givenchy wheeled out the supermodels to show off its latest collection in Paris – another seaside influenced collection with sharp tailoring and couture influences.
Seriously tight trousers were a little like wetsuits, sharks tooth necklaces, textured fabrics like fish scales and sandy colours evoked seaside sexy – no sticks of rock or deckchairs as inspiration as seen at Jaeger and Mulberry LFW.