Both are behemoths of the Italian fashion and feature plenty of gold and winter florals – but in very different ways this MFW.
At Dolce & Gabbana every surface was encrusted with gold embroidery or beading decorating 19th century shapes – corsets, voluminous shorts and capes – yes they’re back! We spotted more pointy shoes, which are now definitely worth investing in.
Even socks were covered in ribbons and earrings replaces with massive bejewelled chandeliers, while floral tapestry-style dresses added to the Sicilian style. And of course there was velvet and gold more velvet and gold.
Over at Versus there was also gold but Christopher Kane style, which for AW12 is edgy and super sexy, with laces, slashes and rivets to flash some flesh. After floral and sporty looks of SS12, the winter Versus woman means business with slicked-back hair and lots of side lacing (a Versace thing). I personally lovre the leather and burgundy combos.
Which collection do you prefer?
We’ve mastered colour blocking and are now seduced by Spring’s pastel hues as well as Pantone’s ‘tangerine’ tango and sherbet lemon so some good news…bold and bright colours were a big feature of Milan Fashion Week.
Seeing as we’re drowning under a heap of Fashion Week news we won’t wax lyrical but let the colour do the talking because it’s punchy…ka-pow!
Minimalism…in Italy? Of course! There were plenty of beautiful simple cuts around but of course all eyes were on Raf Simon’s final collection for Jil Sander. And it was predictably good!
Packed with pretty pastels, soft shapes and luxe fabrics, we loved the loose coats, bustier dresses in cashmere, metallic leather and even PVC and full billowing skirts and trousers – romantic and feminine but not in a frilly way! And there are still those gorgeous pointy ankle-strapped shoes.
Oh Raf, please move to Dior!
No-one does grown-up glamour like the Italians, especially making the LBD look out of this world. After the effort of colour blocking, print clashing and working tricky pastels, it’s nice to be able to throw on a LBD to look (and feel) a million dollars…so thanks Italian designers for giving girls what we really want!
Gucci brought strategically-placed foliage, velvet and a touch of military romance to the catwalk (some red carpet looks here y’all) while Alberta Ferretti’s dresses were softer and beautifully made (and my personal favourite).
Versace’s collection was all about the tough girl (with scary hair) and party armour, with mesh creating structured pieces, fishnets, leather and a touch of The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo about it.
And so on to Pucci. Sheer panels and geometric shapes were the order of the day. There were confusing references about the Bell du Jour look but if you ask us this is about self-assured women looking sexy, a little provocative in a covered-up (just) intriguing way.
Pics: Elle, LFW + Tumblr
Italian fashion legend Roberto Cavalli opened Tel Aviv Fashion Week (well, 3 days) in Israel after a 30 year leave of absence. The flamboyant designer showed off his SS12 collection already seen at Milan.
But why Israel? Well politics aside Milan is twinned with Tel Aviv so the two cities have close ties. Consequently as well as its own Fashion Week, five Israeli designers will be allowed to show off their collections as guests at Milan’s biannual fashion events, according to reports.
There will be two Tel Aviv Fashion Weeks a year, with the next in April 2012. But with high fashion labels and couture huge in the Middle East we’re sure we’ll be seeing more fashion weeks springing up.
Mario Boselli, President of MFW’s organising body, apparently said that he was impressed by the creativity of the Israeli designers and wanted to encourage a new generation of them, while Cavalli reportedly said that Israel is in his heart.
Put the 19th November in your diaries – the day Versace for H&M hits the shops.
Vogue US has a sneak peek of what we can expect and the collection seems to focus on the 1990s heyday. We love the $30 print leggings and the full-on $149 mini dress – for the serious Versace fans. But we’ll be interested to see if the belt, bracelet and earrings on the model will be on sale too – a potentially cheap way of adding that blinged Versace look to the simplest of outfits.
We were so so worried about D&G winding down as it’s defined some serious trends for over a decade but Dolce & Gabbana is still very much alive and our go-to for sassy evening wear (after we win the lottery).
Inspiration: Glamour and incredibly detailed beading in a Vegas show girl kind of way. And vegetables (who’d have thought!) Of course Italian culture also figured…PASTA EARRINGS!
The Look: For party time: sexy crocheted and lace black dresses showing a lot of skin, dresses encrusted with plenty of coloured stones mixed with glitzy fringing, show-girl style sequinned swimsuits with fringing.
For daytime, Dolce & Gabanna took inspiration from vegetables (in a more grown-up way than Moschino Cheap & Chic) with chills, aubergines, onions and tomatoes creating rural idyll print retro-style dresses. Full skirts, printed chiffon, cut-out cotton playsuits and 1950s style underwear made for a sexy rustic look.
Best Bit: The finale where models packed the catwalk wearing retro sequinned swimwear. So glam.
Notes: Scroll all the way down for the frow including Scarlett and Paloma Faith.
And now for the frow…
The Look: Big block colour, simple A-line dresses with nude petticoats and big bold 1970s floral prints. Retro cropped jackets and leather pencil skirts were key shapes too.
Colour-wise everything was vibrant and graphic with 70s chocolate and yellow hues as well as plenty of graphic navy circles and stripes to break up the florals.
Best Bit: Perspex flowers on miniskirts and amazing floral coat.